The fact is that this rock is of extraordinary shape. I observed it from every direction. I climbed to its top with Tocqueville and two companions. Nothing is easier; the only thing to fear is dizziness. We had a guide who was so unfortunate as to have the vertigo; at once the poor devil began to tremble in all his limbs; he only recovered by letting himself slide gently to the bottom; In order to judge the point of view, I and the Englishman took a small barque, and a short distance out we both of us sketched the Giant's Arch.

The other no less curious phenomenon is in the middle of the island. It's a pyramid which seems to lift itself regularly to a height of fifty feet, and which is composed of one rock, never touched by the hand of man. In the rock are crevasses and faults where the Indians sometimes deposed the bones of the dead. I found a small fragment of these relics, and it's one of the riches that I shall bring back to my country.

[written] Aug. 11-13, 1831

(Pierson, p. 301)

(Tocqueville, p. 146)

(Tocqueville, p.146)

I passed my time there in quite an original way. Many of the Indian huts were on the river bank. I went steadily from one to the other. I was alone. I talked as much as possible with the savages I found. A few knew a little French, not one but knows how to say: bonjour. That's already a way of beginning a conversation. Besides, they are very fond of the French. When I found some who did not understand a word of French, I spoke to them by signs. ... If I wanted to give them extreme pleasure, I had but to show them my album. There is one fairly good-looking young Indian girl who gave me a collar of pearls and shells for an American Pic-vert [green woodpecker] that I had painted. There's trading for you, about which I know nothing. You perceive that through seeing Americans I take on their industrial spirit. Happily I have for me the anecdote for the ladies asking for their portraits. ....

In the hut of one of my savages I amused myself painting the face of a small Indian. I made a bird on one cheek, a galloping horse on another, and a cat on his chin. His comrades were in admiration of my masterpieces. You know that it is the custom of the Indians to paint their faces. They do it very crudely, without taste or art. Therefore they were charmed by colors arranged with some method. I have learned the ways of the Indians better in half a day thus passed in their midst than I should have done in reading thousands of volumes. I shall not undertake a description of the subject; taken by and large they seem excellent people. But it's the rough diamond, crude, unpolished, which consequently seems and really is inferior to other stones, far less precious but embellished by art.

While I was on my expedition among the savages, Tocqueville was hunting, and nearly drowned himself. He is very shortsighted; he encounters a stream and thinks it very narrow; he therefore does not hesitate to swim across. But he had been mistaken, and this river was actually so wide that he was utterly worn out when he reached the other bank. These are dangers never run by those who do not know how to swim very well.

All the lands surrounding Green Bay are so flat that there is no sort of view, unless it be that of Fort Howard, which is occupied by some American companies. All the military posts in this lost country have no other object other than to hold the Indians in respect and to expel them always further and further. In this respect the American army has little to do; the Indians are in general resigned to their lot. ...

[written] Aug. 11-13, 1831

(Pierson, p. 304)

If his moderation is not perfect, one must at least admire his zeal; for it is a fact that he came 200 leagues to sustain his thesis, and he will have 200 leagues more to cover to return.

[written] Aug. 11-13, 1831

(Pierson, p. 306)

(Tocqueville, p. 147)

(Tocqueville, p. 147)

***

Conversation with Major Lamard

Major Lamard is a well-educated man of good sense. He has been stationed for a year and a half on the Prairie du Chien. That is a huge plain by the Mississippi. The Europeans have an advanced post there and the place is considered by the Indians neutral ground on which the different nations can meet in peace.

Q. Do you think the Indians will ever adapt themselves to civilization?

A. I doubt it. They are work-shy; and, more important, they have prejudices which will always hold them back in barbarism. The Negroes try to imitate Europeans and cannot succeed. The Indians could do it, but do not want to.

They only value war and hunting and look on work as a disgrace. Far from desiring the comforts of civilization, they scorn and despise them. I have seen Indians on the coldest days of the year with nothing but a blanket to cover them. Far from envying our furs and our cloaks, they looked on them with pity. They could not understand why one should wish for anything more than a wigwam, since one can sleep under cover in that, nor why one should cultivate a field when one could kill the game needed to live on with a gun.

Q. Do you suppose they ever think of uniting to attack the whites?

A. No. There are men among them who have seen the final fate of their race clearly and attempted to struggle. But generally the Indians are too busy with their private wars to think of uniting for a common interest. I was telling you a moment ago that Indian nature is unconquerable. Now here is an example. I knew the son of an Indian chief who up to the age of twenty was brought up in one of our best schools. At that age he went back to the woods. There was the war then between England and the United States. The young man marched with his tribe as part of our army. The Americans had strictly forbidden their Indian allies to scalp their dead enemies. After the first clash, the young man of whom I speak was met by one of our officers. In course of conversation he could not restrain himself from showing with an air of glee a scalp which he had concealed between his waistcoat and shirt to stop the commanders seeing it.

Q. What form of government do they have?

A. They have hereditary chiefs who only exercise some power if they are men of merit. Apart from that, in time of war, they choose a war chief for his ability and courage.

Q. What sort of justice do they have?

A. When a man has killed another sometimes he is handed over to the family of the dead man. Most often public authority does not intervene at all. It is up to the victim's relations to avenge him. Very often they make a settlement.

(Tocqueville, p. 21)

(Tocqueville, p. 147)

They sketched the most picturesque views, that they might, as they said, give pleasure to their friends on their return. And they looked with curious but kindly eye, on the beginnings of improvement in this newly explored region.

They intended, when they left this city, to visit Niagara, and be in Cambridge, at the annual commencement. Wherever they may go, we trust they will receive all the attention, due to foreigners, of cultivated minds and gentlemanly feeling.

- Sept. 1, 1831

(Pierson, p. 308)