Washington: January 17 - February 3

January 19 - Meeting with President Andrew Jackson [described in the following journal entry]


January 20 - Visit to the House and Senate

Excerpt from Beaumont's letter to his mother

I must tell you about our stay in Washington. On our arrival we went first to see the Minister of France, Mr. Serrurier [sic], with whom we had been corresponding for several months and who treated us with especial kindness. The dear man is momentarily a little put out with the government of L.P. which has bethought itself of economizing on ambassadors' salaries. The truth is, they have reduced his salary in absurd fashion; he now gets only 40,000 francs. The veriest charge d' affaires gets more, and it's unfortunate that the Minister of France should find himself in such a position of inferiority, above all in respect to the Minister of England, who gets 150,000.

Mr. Serrurier presented us yesterday evening to the President of the United States. The latter is General Jackson; he is an old man of 66 years, well preserved, and appears to have retained all the vigor of his body and spirit. He is not a man of genius. Formerly he was celebrated as a duelist and hot-head; his great merit is to have won in 1814 the battle of New Orleans against the English. That victory made him popular and brought it about that he was elected president, so true is it that in every country military glory has a prestige that the masses can't resist, even when the masses are composed of merchants and business men.

The President of the United States occupies a palace that in Paris would be called a fine private residence. Its interior is decorated with taste but simply, the salon in which he receives is infinitely less brilliant than those of our ministers. He has no guards watching at the door, and if he has courtiers they are not very attentive to him, for when we entered the salon he was alone, though it was the day of public reception; and during our whole visit but two or three persons entered.

We chatted of things that were insignificant enough. He made us drink a glass of Madeira wine, and we thanked him, using the word Monsieur, like the first comer. People in France have got an altogether false idea of the presidency of the United States. They see in it a sort of political sovereignty and compare it constantly with our constitutional monarchies. Of a certainty, the power of the King of France would be nil if it were modeled after the power of the President of the United States; and the authority of this President would be a thousand times too large, did it resemble that of the King of France.

I visited today the Senate and the Assembly of Representatives of the Union. These two political assemblies meet at the Capitol, a very fine palace and truly worthy of being cited as a magnificent monument. Even so the Americans exaggerate its merits greatly; they often ask foreigners candidly if there exists in Europe anything that can be compared to their Capitol. The aspect of the debates is grave and imposing; rarely do political passions intrude so as to make the debates disorderly.

One of the great advantages of the government of the United States is to have as its seat a small town. Washington scarcely counts 20,000 souls. It was deliberately that the authors of the Constitution chose it as the seat of supreme authority. In a large city, where there is a numerous population and a great populace, political deliberations are never free. All the men I saw today discussed and deliberated with all the more sang-froid for all's being calm about them.

We were introduced into the Senate and Legislature by Mr. Poinsett, a very distinguished man whose acquaintance we made in Philadelphia and whom we were delighted to find again in Washington. He has played in this country a very important political role; it was he who a few years ago plunged Mexico into revolution. ...

I don't know any one who has traveled as much as he; he has made the voyage from America to Europe and back 22 times. He is a man of curious discourse and most interesting conversation. We are finding again here many of the persons we encountered in our trip, and thus we are spared the difficulties one usually experiences on arriving in a town where one has to make new acquaintances. We are going to spend about a fortnight here as usefully as we can. The third or fourth of February we'll set out for New-York. We shall pass by Philadelphia, where we'll stay a day in order to see and say good-bye to certain persons; then we'll go directly to New York, where we'll have two days to make our preparations for departure.

This is already a long letter, dear Maman, yet I won't close it today, and, before sending it to New York, whence it can't go before the first of February, I'll add a word or two to tell you how our time in Washington is passing.

[written] Jan. 20, 1831
(Pierson, p. 663)

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January 21 - Party at the home of Edward Livingston

Excerpt from Beaumont's letter to his mother [cont.]

The evening [of the twenty-first], I passed at the house of the Secretary of State, Mr. Edward Livingston, the most celebrated writer in America. He is a man of about sixty years, who is very kindly and speaks French wonderfully well. He is almost French in his ways because he was born and has spent most of his life in Louisiana. His soirete was charming. They play there bad music, because none other is made in America; but the concert didn't last long and soon they began to dance.

I mingled my square dances and waltzes with most interesting conversations with Mr. Livingston on the penitentiary system and especially on capital punishment, passing thus from the serious to the pleasant, from Rigodon [18th century measure or dance] to Syllogism. That society, furthermore, has no peculiar character; it's absolutely a European salon, and the reason is simple: all the members of the diplomatic corps gathered in Washington set the tone; French is the common language, and you would believe yourself in a Parisian salon.

[written] Jan. 22, 1831

(Pierson, p. 665)

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January 22 - Impressions of Washington

Excerpt from Beaumont's letter to his mother [cont.]

We are completely launched in Washington society. We spent a part of yesterday making calls, escorted by the first secretary of legation who introduced us.

We traversed the city, therefore, in every direction. This town, whose population is inconsiderable, is yet immense in area. Distances are almost as great as in Paris. The consequence is that the houses are scattered here and there, without connection between them, without order and without symmetry. Outside of the fact that it makes a very ugly panorama, it's very annoying for those with visits to make.

[written] Jan. 22, 1831

(Pierson, p. 666)

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January 23

Excerpt from Beaumont's letter to his mother [cont.]

23 January - we dined yesterday with the Minister of France, who gave us an excellent dinner despite the reduction of his salary. His wife is pretty and very nice. We spoke long of France. ...

All our week is going to be agreeably occupied. Tomorrow we are passing the evening at Mr. Livingston's; Wednesday we have a dance at the house of Mr. Patterson, Commodore of the American navy; Thursday, a great ministerial dinner at Mr. Livingston's; Friday, ball at the house of Mr. MacLane, Secretary of the Treasury; we dine Saturday with Mr. Adams, ex-president of the United States. I am much afraid they will give us indigestion. All our evenings are taken, as you see.

As for our days, we spend them almost entirely in the Senate and the Legislature. We have free passes, like the members of these assemblies themselves. I don't believe, however, that my stay in Washington will be as profitable as it might; in spite of all my efforts to fix my attention on the interesting objects all around, I am given over to one perpetual preoccupation: the idea of my return. So long as I had several months of absence before me, I was not without courage in bearing them; now that I have but a fortnight to spend far from you, I feel my strength failing. ...

[written] Jan. 23, 1831

(Pierson, p. 669)


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January 24

Journal entries

Mr. Everett (Edward) told me today that of Members of Congress nine-tenths belonged to the lawyer class. The landowners are in very small numbers there.

Mr. Serurier who was French Minister in the United States twenty years ago, told me that he found a very great change had taken place when he came back. Men were of lesser stature; one saw no more great political abilities.

(Tocqueville, p. 115)


***

Mr. Trist , a government official, a Virginian and very talented man, said to me today that Virginia was but a shadow of herself; that her great men and even her notable men had disappeared, and that one saw no more such rise in their places.

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Excerpt from Tocqueville's letter to his father

If you would like to have an idea what power men possess to calculate the events of the future, you must visit Washington. Forty years ago, when it was a question of building a capital for the Union, they looked, as reasonable men would, for the most favorable spot. On the banks of the Potomack [sic] was located a green plain, which they selected. The broad and deep river, at one end, was to bring to the new city the products of Europe; the fertile districts behind would provision the market and surround the spot with a numerous population. Washington, in twenty years, would be the center of the domestic and foreign trade of the Union. A million inhabitants, arriving before very long, were predicted for it. In consequence they began to build public edifices that could match so vast a population; streets were laid out of enormous width; there was an especial hurry to cut down, as far as one could see, the trees that might hinder the building of houses. All that was but, on a large scale, the story of the pot au lait:

Il etait, quand je l'eus, de grosseur raisonable.
J'aurai....

The peasant's wife and Congress reasoned in the same fashion. The population did not come; the vessels did not mount the Potomack [sic]. Today, Washington offers the sight of an arid plain, burned by the sun, on which are scattered two or three sumptuous edifices and the five or six villages composing the town. Unless one is Alexander or Peter the Great, one must not meddle with creating the capital of an empire.

[It may] perhaps be the last I shall write you from America. God be praised; we are counting on embarking the 10th or 20th of February from New York; and thirty days being the average passage, we will arrive in France toward the 10th or 20th of March. ... We have been here a week, and shall remain till the sixth of February. Our sojourn here is useful and agreeable. Washington contains at the moment the outstanding men of the entire Union. It's no longer a question for us of obtaining from them ideas about things we know nothing about: but we review, in our conversations with them, all that we knew already more or less exactly. We determine the doubtful points. It's a kind of counter-inquiry, which is very useful. ...

At this moment I am turning over a great many ideas about America. Many are still in my head; quite a number are thrown, in embryo and without order, on paper, or are spread through the conversations written up in the evening on returning to my lodgings. All these preparations will pass under your eyes; you will find nothing interesting in itself; but will be able to judge whether I can make some use of them.

During the last six weeks of traveling, when my body was more tired and my mind more tranquil than for a long time past, I have thought a good deal about what might be written about America. To try to present a complete picture of the Union would be an enterprise absolutely impracticable for a man who has passed but a year in this immense country. I believe, moreover, that such a work would be as boring as it would be instructive. One might be able, on the other hand, by selecting the topics, to present only those subjects having a more or less direct relation to our social and political state. In this way the work might have at the same time a permanent and an immediate interest. There's the plan: but will I have the time and discover in myself the ability to carry it out? That's the question.

There is, besides, one consideration always present in my mind; I shall write what I think, or nothing; and all truth is not palatable (bonne a dire). In two months at the latest, I hope, we will be able to talk about all that at our ease. ...

You say in one of your letters, dear Father, that you are counting on me to do something worth while in the world. I want to justify your expectation even more for your sake, I swear, than for my own.

(Pierson, p. 667)

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January 27

Journal entry

Mr. Trist, a senior official in the State Department, said to us today: Everything is published in this country, but perhaps nowhere else is it so difficult to collect documents bearing on past events. Since nothing is stable, neither men nor things in our government offices, the evidence vanishes at an incredible rate. Nothing, for instance, is harder than to get a record of the proceedings of Congress. Recently Virginia wanted to print the proceedings of her Legislature since the Revolution. Never could a complete copy of the debates be found.

The scheme had to be given up.

(Tocqueville, p. 116)

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January 28

Journal entry

I asked Mr. Adams today why one accepted that difference between the social condition of the new States of the West and that of those of New England. He answered me: That is due almost entirely to the point of departure. New England has been people by a very enlightened and profoundly religious race of men.

The West has been peopled by all the adventurers to be found in the Union. People for the most part without principles or morality, whom poverty or bad behavior has driven from the old States, or who are only bent on enriching themselves.

(Tocqueville, p. 116)

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January 31

Journal entry

One of the greatest dangers that the Union runs, which seems to result from its very prosperity; the speed with which the new nations are arising in the West and SouthWest certainly subjects it to a severe test.

The first result of this disproportionate growth is violently to change the balance of forces and of political influence. Powerful States become weak; nameless territories become powerful States. Wealth as well as population changes place. These changes cannot take place without bruising interests, or without arousing violent passions. The speed with which they come about renders them a hundred times more dangerous yet.

That is not all. A society of nations, like a society of individuals, is a difficult thing to maintain. The more members there are in a society, the greater the difficulty becomes; moreover it is essential that each of them should bring moderation and wisdom to the common councils.

Now, not only do the new States of the Union, by the simple fact of their existence, increase the difficulty of maintaining the federal bond, but they also provide slighter guarantees of wisdom and moderation than do the old States. The new States are generally made up of adventurers. The progress of society is so rapid, one might say so impetuous, that everything there is still in disorder. Nothing there in morals, ideas or laws betrays an appearance or order or stability. In a word, they have the half-savage, uncultivated minds which are characteristic of the first inhabitants of wilderness, combined with the power which generally only belongs to old societies.

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February 2

According to Pierson, Tocqueville and Beaumont spent the day visiting the Senate. At 5 p.m., they called on Nicholas Trist to say their goodbyes

[source: letters from Beaumont contained in the collection of Trist Papers, Library of Congress]

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